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Exhaust Gaskets

Exhaust gaskets sit between two flange faces to seal the joint and stop exhaust gas escaping before it reaches the muffler or tailpipe. Getting the right one comes down to matching the bolt pattern — most commonly 2 bolt, 3 bolt or 4 bolt — plus the correct pipe diameter and gasket material for the heat the joint sees. Header and manifold joints run hottest, so a high-temperature graphite or multi-layer steel gasket generally outlasts a basic fibre gasket in that position. Browse our full exhaust flanges range if you're building a joint from scratch.

Once a flange joint has been torqued up, the gasket compresses to form its seal — reusing it after you've undone the joint again almost always leads to a leak, so it's worth fitting a fresh one every time you disturb a flange. Pair new gaskets with new bolts, exhaust nuts or manifold studs at the same time, since the old hardware has usually stretched or corroded from the heat cycling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to replace exhaust gaskets every time I disconnect a joint?

Yes. Most gaskets deform permanently once compressed and won't reseal properly if reused, so it's best practice to fit a new gasket at every flange joint you undo.

What's the difference between 2 bolt, 3 bolt and 4 bolt gaskets?

The bolt count refers to the flange pattern the gasket is cut for. Match it exactly to your existing flange or header to avoid leaks or fitment issues.

Why does my exhaust tick when the engine is cold?

A ticking noise on cold start-up is a common symptom of a leaking or perished gasket at a flange joint, often near the manifold or headers where heat cycling is most extreme.

What gasket material is best for header or manifold joints?

High-temperature graphite or multi-layer steel gaskets handle the heat cycling near the engine better than basic fibre gaskets, which can dry out and crack over time.